THE SIDE-GUSSET, MAGEE
Magee (street), a Cambridge gusset casual, thought to originate on Jermyn Street, London, where Crockett & Jones’ London flagships reside. This very ‘London’ style combines antique calf uppers with expertly stitched willow grain gusset sides and quarter inserts.
in Dark Brown Antique Calf & Dark Brown Willow Grain. Featuring a rare seamless counter and Rendenbach leather soles, Magee offers thoughtful detailing in abundance. From 140th Anniversary Collection.
A new form, developed specifically for the collection - Last 140. Including black sole stain & British racing green linings
A physical job no doubt. Rough rounding is up there with the toughest operations in the Goodyear-welted process. Holding a fully lasted shoe or boot at shoulder height is hard but important work. Without a rough round, we would not be able to stitch the soles or shape the edges to the final finish.
CHANNEL OPENING & CLOSING
Rough rounding cut a channel into the leather sole, Rendenbach in this instance, which needs opening to accept and conceal the sole stitch and closing once the stitching has been done. Laying the channel uses a curious looking brass wheel that spins at a rate of knots to beat the channel down.