Origins of... The Derby
It is impossible to determine at what period in time man first thought of shielding his feet from the perils of climate and condition...Read More
Produced in May 2009. Last 363 is a Hand Grade Collection last with a soft round toe, and asymmetric fitting qualities. This last is widely regarded as one of Crockett & Jones’ best fitting lasts. This is due to the slimmer back part reducing heel slippage, and a slightly narrower waist offering good arch support. Crockett & Jones’ take on a modern, but contemporary round toe, 363 suits straight cap Oxfords as well as providing the foundations to an excellent fitting Hand Grade loafer. Fitting advice from retail… Last 363 will fit true to size. The toe shape is aesthetically similar to last 341.
Derby shoes are possibly the most versatile of all shoe styles, bridging the gap between smart and smart casual wear with ease. A Brogue Derby is easily the most recognisable variation, made popular with the introduction of the full country Brogue which was developed for practical uses in the fields. The sequence of operations for constructing a Derby, differs to an Oxford. Inside and outside Quarters are stitched to a tab point either side of the vamp and the tongue is cut as part of the vamp and is not a separate component. Often referred to as ‘Open Lacing’.