Last No. 373
Produced in June 2015. Last 373 is a Hand Grade Collection last with a sharp chisel toe, and asymmetric fitting qualities. Sharing a back part with last 363, this last also boasts closer heel clipping reducing slippage, and a slightly narrower waist offering good arch support. With a sharp chisel toe, within the boundaries of English shoemaking, last 373 is a signature for producing the most elegant handmade English shoes of the highest regard.
Said to have been developed by an alpine monk in the 15th century, and worn throughout European monasteries, this style was popularised in the 1920s. Unbeknown to many, a Monk strap style hosts similar fitting qualities and construction to a Derby. You could think of a Monk style as a ‘modern day’ Derby, of sorts. With open quarters, and a whole cut vamp and tongue, Monk straps (single and double buckle) are remarkably comfortable on the foot. However, they will not offer the same level of adjustment, due to the absence of laces. The sequence of operations for constructing a Monk is similar to a Derby. Inside and outside Quarters are stitched to a tab point either side of the vamp and the tongue is cut as part of the vamp and is not a separate component.