Manufactured at our factory in Northampton, each pair goes through the same tried and tested Goodyear welted manufacturing process undertaken by the same skilled hands. Slight differences between the ranges set one apart from the other, making our Hand Grade Collection one of the finest, highest quality ready-to-wear shoes made in England today. Below we have outlined each collection and their differences.
Hand Grade Collection
Our Hand Grade Collection are all formed around a carefully developed asymmetric last, shaped to the natural contours of the foot giving exceptional fitting qualities. All Crockett & Jones lasts are developed by our Managing Director, Jonathan Jones. Working alongside a last maker, they work on toes shapes, back parts and the overall fit of the last. The development of a new last is a process that can last months, sometimes years. The toe shape of a style is the signature of a shoe and can be the defining element between success and failure.
The uppers are cut from the finest ‘Antique Calf’ skins with a supple tannage, providing glove like comfort. Fine aniline dyes in the leathers and extensive hand polishing of the finished shoes, creates a rich depth of colour which will be enhanced with age if regularly polished and cared for.
The Hand Grade Collection sports soles that have been slowly tanned with natural barks, in the most traditional way producing superior comfort and flexibility. Our skilled craftsmen in our Making Room cut a flap of leather into the sole, folding it back to create a channel which is opened up allowing the sole stitchers to get close into the hinge of the flap. This flap is then cemented and beaten down, completely hiding the stitch, a process called Channelled Stitching. To complete the sole the inside corner of the heal is removed, creating a Gentleman’s Corner which reduces trouser snagging for the wearer.
Finally, a nod to our Heritage, all Hand Grade styles are stamped with our recognisable Hand Grade logo that dates back to Crockett & Jones shoes in the 1930’s. Completing the process of creating our superior quality Hand Grade Collection.
Our Men’s Main Collection encompasses a wide range of elegant calf styles for city wear, as well as country shoes and boots, house slippers and driving shoes. This assortment of footwear with leather or rubber soles is made from the finest leathers, including aniline calf, suede, country grains and specialised waxed leathers.
Hand-crafted by the traditional Goodyear welted construction, our Main Collection shoes & boots have an exceptional combination of comfort, elegance and longevity in wear. Each pair takes up to 8 weeks to manufacture in a process involving over two hundred separate operations, following almost the exact same journey around our factory as our Hand Grade Collection.