Derby shoes are possibly the most versatile of all shoe styles, bridging the gap between smart and smart casual wear with ease. A Brogue Derby is easily the most recognisable variation, made popular with the introduction of the full country Brogue which was developed for practical uses in the fields. The sequence of operations for constructing a Derby, differs to an Oxford. Inside and outside Quarters are stitched to a tab point either side of the vamp and the tongue is cut as part of the vamp and is not a separate component. Often referred to as ‘Open Lacing’.